mindtangle

goma

Congolese Plane Crashes

postedby ericnguyen on April15th,2008 tagged goma

Several people sent me this NYT article, today, about a plane crash in Goma. I’m hoping that no one at the HEAL hospital was hurt. The crash was definitely far enough from the Goma Student Fund school that the kids were safe.

As I wrote back to the Tree, air safety in that part of the world is abysmal, particularly in the Congo. Ihere were two plane crashes in or near Goma in the six weeks that I was there. Most of the pilots I hung out with were fly-by-the-seat-of-their pants South Africans, and they all had tons of horror stories. I decided never to fly with any of them…

In any case, the her father had this story to tell:

I remember the Congo air transport infrastructure as made up of clapped Antonov planes from the former Soviet Union, flown by former soviet pilots and crew who looked about as beat up as their planes. We (me and the photographer) persuaded one crew to fly to the interior (as promised on the schedule) with the timely presentation of a bottle of scotch. Later on someone tried to hijack that same flight, attempt being thwarted by the intervention of a passenger who strangled one of the hijackers.

UPDATE: The HEAL Africa hospital is full of the injured and working hard to provide care.

UPDATE: From Camille, who works at the US Embassy in Goma:

An American family was on the flight that crashed today in Goma. Barry and Mary Beth Mosier and their children April and Andrew managed to escape from the burning aircraft. They are all okay. Andrew, 3 ½, got a leg cast after being injured trying to get out of the plane. We visited them a few minutes ago; they were, obviously, tired from the whole ordeal but grateful to still be around.

Camille (left), his wife (right) and the family in the middle: Barry and Mary Beth Mosier and their children April and Andrew

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Congolese Music on Muxtape

postedby ericnguyen on April15th,2008 tagged goma

Fred over at ExtraExtra just posted a playlist of Congolese music that you can listen to right in your browser: http://fredr.muxtape.com/

This former post has an awesome video of Congolese kids grooving out to this stuff, plus some history of the music. I’ve embedded the video here, too:

Muxtape.com looks like a great idea, by the way. I seem to remember several similar companies choking on copyright lawyer effluent, back in the boom. I wonder how these guys are surviving.

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Interview with Lyn Lusi

Here’s a great audio interview with Lyn, the matriarch and organizing force behind HEAL Africa, and a lovely woman. Hearing her voice makes me miss Goma.

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Peace Deal Announced

postedby ericnguyen on January22nd,2008 tagged goma

I’m curious about the details, but the peace conference in Goma has supposedly borne some fruit:

Government negotiators and rebel groups reached a deal to end fighting in the vast country’s restive east, where some 800,000 people had to flee their homes over the last year, officials said Monday.

All parties agreed to the accord and scheduled a formal signing for Tuesday, Vital Kamerhe, the president of Congo’s national assembly, announced.

The devil is in the details. This is a conflict over resources as much as it is over ethnic affiliations. Frankly, I’m surprised to see all parties agreeing on anything after just a week of negotiations.

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“Blood River,” continued

postedby ericnguyen on January15th,2008 tagged goma

A few posts back, I linked to a blogger who was protesting an author’s grim characterization of the DRC. The author responded, and the two have had an interesting exchange. Says the author (Rory) of the original book review:

I am sorry if my review of Tim Butcher’s Blood River has upset some DRC residents. I am no Congo expert, but I understand that life in much of the country can be very grim. The Lancet reports that 1,200 people die in the Congo each day through civil unrest. By comparison, post-Saddam Iraq and post-Taliban Afghanistan do not even come close to 1,200 dead per day. As to whether DRC is as grim today as it was at the time of Stanley, this seems to me to be a question that is worth considering — given these and other statistics.

I have no doubt that there are many positive sides to the Congo, and I am sure Kinshasa is safe for expatriates. (But weren’t upwards of 300 people — Congolese, not expats — killed in a gun battle on a main street?) I hope that readers will not misinterpret my closing line. I do not say that it’s not worth going to the Congo, rather I state quite clearly — within the context of the review — that travellers should not visit unless they can deal with the dangers. Consider my last line to be the equivalent of a health warning on a pack of cigarettes!

The blogger (Fred)’s response:

Dear Rory,

Thank you for taking the time to reply.

I assure you I am not upset. It’s true that Congo’s mortality rates are still very high, but this has more to do with poverty and a health infrastructure ruined by years war and mismanagement than direct violence. Much of the country is relatively stable now, apart from a small but very populous area in the east, where fighting continues.

In fact, as recent posts on this blog show, I have no wish to play down the fact that bad things continue to happen in the Congo. A ‘health warning’ is probably appropriate. But living here, I have developed a sensitivity to the endless perpetration of what I might as well call the Heart of Darkness myth. That novel was of course inspired by grim fact, being set in the era of ruthless exploitation that killed millions of Congolese and was ushered in by Stanley’s reporting, as it happens. (I strongly recommend King Leopold’s Ghost, by Adam Hochschild, for a truly gripping account of that history.) But such was the impact of Heart of Darkness that to this day it seems automatically to trigger a knee-jerk set of misleading ideas about this part of the world.

If I were Congolese, I would wish that Conrad had had more courage of a conviction he hints at: that European civilisation was built on ’savage’ inhumanity to man. (Arguably, that was the intolerable secret that destroyed Kurtz, and was ‘too dark’ for Marlow to tell Kurtz’s fiancée at the end.)

But because Conrad was deliberately ambiguous, more interested in psychology than history, and probably a little racist like his most of his contemporaries, what sticks in the mind - and the popular imagination - is the forbidding atmosphere which he so successfully conjures up, distorting the scenery by looking at it through fearful European eyes. His narrator, Marlow, thinks it is the “corrupt”, “impenetrable” wilderness that drove Kurtz mad by awakening his “forgotten, brutal instincts”. So in the end, as if by a trick of the light, it is the Congo’s bountiful, beautiful landscape which is indelibly associated with the terrifying, unknown heart of darkness, and not the greed that drove King Leopold’s monstrous rubber and ivory racket.

I’d rather not quote so extensively (the excerpts above are the bulk of Fred’s post), but it the whole exchange was so interesting.

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“Blood River”

postedby ericnguyen on January10th,2008 tagged goma

Guardian Unlimited reviewer Rory Maclean had this to say after reading Tim Butcher’s new travel account, Blood River: A Journey to Africa’s Broken Heart:

In its final pages, Butcher writes of his extraordinary journey, I “touched the heart of Africa and found it broken”. We can weep for this betrayed, failed land, but please don’t go there.

The DRC is definitely one of the world’s most screwed-up places, but you should definitely go there. I just wouldn’t recommend motorbiking across the country, solo, with “a penknife and a packet of baby-wipes as his only protection,” as Butcher did.

[Found via this blog post]

Update: Rory, the reviewer, responded to Fred.

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Video from the Mugunga Camps

postedby ericnguyen on January4th,2008 tagged goma, politics

I came across this video report from the Mugunga Camps near Goma, today. The scenes here are only a kilometer or two from one of the Goma Student Fund’s schools:

EUX.TV Videojournalist Raymond Frenken travels to Congo and finds himself in a refugee camp near Goma - in the heart of the war-torn Kivu province - that was looted by army soldiers just a few days earlier.

Peace talks between the rebels and the government have begun, but the fighting has displaced a staggering half a million people or more. The tone of this news piece is hopeful, however. After describing life in Mugunga, it focuses on reforms that the EU is helping the Congolese military make, including biometric identification cards and a “full separation of the chain of command from the chain of payment.” The hope is that well-paid soldiers that can readily identified by the populace will stop their rampant looting and help stabilize rather than destabilize areas that they are deployed to.

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Goma Security Alerts

I’ve been receiving a number of security alerts from Goma, since many expect the government to move against various rebel groups (mostly FDLR) in the next few days. I’ve received standard warnings, before, but this batch were distinct in that they included specific expected troop movements and a map of Goma indicating evacuation points:

evacuation points for Goma, DRC (Congo)

Fortunately, there are places to regroup both near Maji Matu Livu (the house where I stayed) and near the hospital. Sadly, I know that evacuation plans like these are mostly for non-Congolese. I hope everyone I know stays safe, and that contingency plans like these aren’t needed.

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Hutus vs Tutsis: an Op-Ed

This is the most frank appraisal I’ve read of the intersection between politics and ethnic tensions in the the Great Lakes Region (i.e. easter DR Congo and Rwanda.) The history of the area is complicated, and this Op-Ed (by Jan van Eck) reflects that. But it dives straight into the topics that I’ve been unable to get straightforward discussion on, during personal conversations.

Unless the Rwandan government opens up the possibility of Rwandan Hutus exercising what should be a normal democratic right, that is, forming a predominantly Hutu party, the Hutu military and political movements in exile in the eastern DRC will continue to grow — both in determination to liberate their country and in numbers — with more and more politicised Hutus supporting them.

Unless Rwanda liberalises its internal political situation, and allows freedom of political and ethnic expression (as is, for example, the case in neighbouring Burundi), it will remain under threat from politicised Hutus — most of whom are either in eastern DRC or in the diaspora.

If 13 years after the genocide Rwandans still cannot be trusted to not use ethnicity to repeat the genocide, the country is surely in serious trouble. Invading the DRC to root out these Hutus is neither justified nor a solution.

I’m going to send out some emails to see what people I know in Goma think…

Also, here’s a good overview of the current military situation. This is some lazy blogging, but I’m really just caching links…

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Neal Lesh: OpenMRS, Information Systems for Medicine in the Developing World

A month ago, on my way home to San Francisco, I stopped in New York for the weekend to visit some good friends. While I was there, Aaron came across this post in one of his professor’s blogs, mentioning an interesting talk by Neal Lesh. I went, and now I’m finally getting around to posting up my notes.

Dr. Lesh’s background is related to my latest trip to the Congo: he’s a computer science researcher who went back to get his Masters degree in Public Health, and then developed several information systems for the delivery of medical care in the developing world. He was one of the early contributors to OpenMRS, the software I was piloting in Goma.

Since everyone was working during the day, on Monday, I decided to head uptown to Colombia (Natalie was going in at the same time anyway) and sit in. He spoke about the challenges and opportunities for applying information technologies for the well-being of people in countries like Rwanda and Bangladesh.

The question for me, going forward, is how I can also bring my resources to bear on the world’s problems, if only a person-sized piece of them. I have some ideas which will hopefully solidify as I continue my work (remotely) with the OpenMRS pilot in Goma.

I took some rough notes of the lecture; they’re after the jump.

Read the rest of this entry »

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